Tom MacCubbin's Plant Doctor Topics:

 

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African Iris/Dividing
African Iris/Epsom Salt
African Iris/Pruning
Agapanthus/Florida Betony
Amaryllis
Amaryllis/Dividing Bulbs
Amaryllis/Foliage Loss
Amaryllis Pods
Amaryllis/Transplanting
Angel Trumpet
Aphids/Rose
Apple Tree
Asiatic Jasmine
Asiatic Jasmine/Mulching
Asiatic Jasmine/Transplanting
Asiatic Jasmine/Turf Replacement
Atrazine
Avocado Seed
Avocado Tree
Avocado Tree/Ringing
Azalea/Aged
Azalea/Lace Bug
Azalea/Lacebug
Azalea/Lacewing
Azalea/Leaf Spot
Azalea/Oak Leaf Mulch
Azalea/Pruning
Azalea/Scraggly
Azalea/Yellowing

Bahia/Insects
Bahia/Iron Deficiency
Bahia/Oxalis
Bahia/Resodding
Bahia/Sedge
Bahia/Seeding
Bahia/Stinging Nettles
Bald Cypress
Banana
Bean Seedlings
Bees
Benjamin Fig/Thrips
Bermuda Grass/Invading St. Augustine
Big Boy Tomato
Bird of Paradise/Flowering
Bird of Paradise/Pruning
Bird of Paradise/Yellowing
Blue Lake Grapevine
Bluebell Barleria
Broccoli
Bromeliad/Container Gardening
Bromeliad/Sunny Location
Buddleia/Pruning
Butterfly Bush/Pruning
Butterfly Gardening

Caladium
Caladium/Fertilizing
Caladium/Transplanting
Calla Lily/Yellowing
Camellia Buds
Camellia/Root Bound
Camellia/Tea Scale Insect
Camellia/Transplanting
Camphor Tree/Roots
Canna
Canna/Pruning
Cantaloupe
Carnation
Caterpillar/Desert Rose
Caterpillar/Geranium
Cauliflower
Cercospora Leaf Spot Fungus
Chinch Bugs
Christmas Cactus/Rot
Christmas Cactus/Transplanting
Citrus/Blooming
Citrus/Blooming/Young Tree
Citrus/Fertilizing
Citrus/Fruit Production
Citrus/Grafting
Citrus/Mulching
Citrus/Pruning
Citrus/Rust Mites
Citrus/Soot
Citrus/Sucker
Coconut Palm
Co-Dominant Trunks
Cold Damaged Plants/Pruning
Confederate Jasmine/Pruning
Confederate Jasmine/Shade
Container Plants
Container Plants/Pool Area
Container Plants/Water Needs
Corn
Corn Plant
Corn Plant/Browning
Crab Grass
Crab Grass/Asiatic Jasmine Replacement
Crape Myrtle/Blossoms
Crape Myrtle/Lichens
Crape Myrtle/Pruning
Crape Myrtle/Shoots
Crape Myrtle/Sooty Mold
Crinum Lily/Pruning
Croton
Croton/Pruning
Croton/Thrips
Cucumber/Pollination
Cycad Scale

Dahlias
Delphinium
Desert Rose/Caterpillar
Dwarf Buford Holly/Tea Scale
Dwarf Yaupon Holly/Pruning
Dyckias Bromeliad

East Palatka Holly/Co-Dominant Trunks
Easter Lily
Eggplant
Eggplant/Insects
Epsom Salt

Fertilization
Fertilizer (Granular)/Saving
Ficus Tree/Freezing
Ficus Tree/Pruning
Ficus Tree/Scale Insects/Pool-Side
Ficus Tree/Thrips
Fig Tree/Propagating
Floratam
Florida Betony/Agapanthus
Frangipani
Freeze Damage
Frogs
Fruit on Ground

Gardenia
Gardenia/Fertilizing
Gardenia/Pruning
Gardenia Standard
Gardenia/Watering
Gardenia/Yellowing
Geranium
Geranium/Caterpillar
Gladiolus
Golden Rain Tree/Root Problem
Grapefruit
Grapefruit Tree/Pruning
Grapefruit Tree/Sooty Mold
Grapefruit Tree/Transplanting
Green Algae
Ground Cover
Grubs

Hawaiian Schefflera/Propagating
Hawaiian Snowbush/Pruning
Herbs/Transplanting
Hibiscus/Fertilization
Hibiscus/Flowering
Hibiscus/Propagating
Hibiscus/Pruning
Hibiscus/Yellowing
Holly/Disease
Holly/Gender
Holly/Tea Scale
Honeysuckle/Caterpillar Damage
Hosta
Houseplants/Scale
Hoya/Propagating
Hyacinth
Hyacinth Bulbs
Hydrangea

Impatiens/Pruning
Indian Hawthorn/Wax Scale
Irrigation
Italian Cypress/Pruning
Ixora

Jacaranda
Jerusalem Artichoke

Kalanchoe
Knock Out Roses/Pruning
Kudzu

Lacewing/Azalea
Lady Palm
Landscape Fabric
Lava Rocks
Lawn Mower/Mulching
Leafhoppers/St. Augustine
Leatherleaf Fern
Lemon Tree
Lemon Tree/Deer Protection
Lichens/Crape Myrtle
Ligustrum/Leaf Spots
Ligustrum/Sooty Mold Fungus
Ligustrum/Wilting
Lilac
Lily/Flowering
Lime Tree/Pruning
Liriope/Pruning
Lubber Grasshoppers

Magnolia/Flowering
Magnolia/Hurricane Damage
Magnolia/Leaf Spot
Magnolia/Scale
Magnolia Seeds
Mandevilla Vine
Mandevilla Vine/Pruning
Maple Tree
Maple Tree/Surface Roots
Marigold
Melampodium/Pruning
Meyer Lemon
Midge
Mona Lavender/Propagating
Mulch
Mulch as Weed Control
Mulch/Vegetable Garden
Mulching Lawn Mower

Naval Citrus/Insects
Nematodes
Nematodes/St. Augustine
Nematodes/St. Augustine
Night Time Lights
Norfolk Island Pine
Nun's Orchid

Oak Leaf Blister
Oak Leaf Mulch/Azaleas
Oak Tree/Browning
Oak Tree/Close to House
Oak Tree/Fertilizing
Oak Tree/Galls
Oak Tree/Hurricane Damage
Oak Tree/Leaf Drop
Oak Tree/Leaf Spotting
Oak Tree/Soil Over Root Area
Oak Tree/Transplanting
Oleander Caterpillar (Desert Rose)
Oleander/Caterpillars
Oleander/Pruning
Orange Tree/Pruning
Orchid/Roots
Orchid/Yellowing
Oriental Lily
Ornamental Grass/Pruning
Overseeding
Oxalis

Palm Tree/Moss
Palm Tree/Pruning
Papaya
Papaya/Cold Damage
Papaya/Gender
Peace Lily/Pool Area/Sooty Mold Fungus
Peace Lily/Pruning
Peach Tree
Peach Tree/Small Fruit
Pear Tree
Pecan Tree/Caterpillars
Peonies
Peppers
Petunia
Petunia/Wilting
Philippine Violet
Pine Needle Mulch
Pine Tree/Fertilizing
Pineapple
Pineapple/Propagating
Pineapple/Yellowing
Pinguin Bromeliad
Pittosporum/Sooty Mold Fungus
Plectranthus/Propagating
Plumbago/Pruning
Plumeria
Plumeria/Spots
Podocarpus/Root Ball
Podocarpus/Sooty Mold Fungus
Poinsettia
Poinsettia/Brown Stems
Poinsettia/Pruning
Ponytail
Pool-Side Plants
Pool-Side Plants/Scale Insects
Potato
Pothos
Pygmy Date Palm/Container Grown/Yellowing
Pygmy Date Palm/Pruning

>
Queen Palm/Pruning

Raking Grass
Rhubarb
Roebelenii Palm/Container Grown/Yellowing
Roebelenii Palm/Pruning
Root Ball Berm
Root Rot/St. Augustine
Rose
Rose/Aphids
Rose/Powdery Mildew
Rose/Pruning
Rose/Yellowing
Rosemary
Ryegrass

Sago/Cycad Scale
Sago/Gender
Sago/Manganese Deficiency
Sago/Pruning
St. Augustine/Aeration
St. Augustine/Fertilization
St. Augustine/Herbicide Damage
St. Augustine/Installation
St. Augustine/Leafhoppers
St. Augustine/Mowing
St. Augustine/Nematodes
St. Augustine/Overseeding
St. Augustine/Oxalis
St. Augustine/Plugs
St. Augustine/Root Problems/Post Hurricanes
St. Augustine/Root Rot
St. Augustine/Sandspurs
St. Augustine/Sedge
St. Augustine/Seeding
St. Augustine/Shade
St. Augustine/Weed-and-Feed
St. Augustine/Weed Control
St. Augustine/Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis)
St. Augustine/Yellowing
Salt Tolerant Ground Cover
Scale Insects
Schefflera/Pruning
Schefflera/Scale Insects/Pool-Side
Sedge/St. Augustine
Seeds/Saving
Seeds/Sow Time
Shade Plants
Shrub Roses/Pruning
Sky Vine
Slugs
Small Tree Recommendation
Society Garlic/Dividing
Sour Bugs/Citrus
Spathiphyllum
Sphaeropsis
Squash/Pollination
Staghorn Fern
Staghorn Fern/Fertilizing
Stinkhorn Mushrooms
Strawberries/Slugs
String Trimmer Damage
Suckers
Sunflowers
Sunflowers/Transplanting
Surinam Cherry
Sweet Olive/Pruning
Sword Fern
Sycamore Tree/Bark

Tabebuia/Blooming
Tabebuia/Cracked Trunk
Tabebuia/Propagating
Tangelo
Tea Scale Insect/Camellia
Thrips
Tomato
Tomato/Caterpillar Damage
Tomato/Container Grown
Tomato/Fall Garden
Tomato/Leaf Miners
Tomato/Over-Fertilization
Tomato/Pollination
Tomato/Pruning
Tomato Seeds
Tomato/Wilting
Tree Canopy/Frost Protection for Tropical Plants
Tree Stump Shoots
Trees/Roots
Trees/Shedding Leaves
Trees/Wet Area
Tropical Yam
Tulips
Turf
Turf/Bare Spot
Turf/Brown Patch Fungus
Turf/Crab Grass
Turf/Grubs
Turf/Insect Control
Turf/Leveling
Turf/Nematodes
Turf/Rejuvenation
Turf/Replacement
Turf/Roundup Herbicide
Turf/Shade
Turf/Shade Area
Turf/Weed-and-Feed
Turf/Weed Control

Valencia Orange Tree/Fruit Ripening
Vegetable Garden/Mulch
Vegetable Garden/Pollination
Vegetable Garden/Shade
Vegetable Garden/Watering
Viburnum/Propagating
Viburnum/Pruning
Vine for Shade
Viola

Washingtonian Palm/Pruning
Watering
Watermelon
Wax Scale/Indian Hawthorn
Weed-and-Feed
Weed-and-Feed/Turf Damage
Weed Control
Whiteflies
Winged Elm/Pruning
Witches Broom Disease

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

African Iris/Dividing

Question:Last year, I planted African iris that now need dividing. What is the best way to separate the plants?

Answer:As you are about to discover, these plants have dense, interwoven rhizomes that make them difficult to separate. Pry them apart with a square-bladed spade or cut the clumps apart with a sharp knife. Form clusters with six or more leaves to replant in the garden or grow in containers until space is available in the landscape. (4/10/2005)

African Iris/Pruning

Question: My neighbors and I have large beds of African iris. The neighbors cut their plants way back after they bloomed. Is this what you are supposed to do?

Answer: Perhaps your neighbors can explain this drastic action, but it's not standard practice. African irises usually take care of themselves, but they will develop some old leaves and flower stalks that might need selective removal from time to time.
Maybe your neighbors felt a quick pass with the hedge shears would be a good way to give the plants a fresh start. Although the plants are sure to be a little unsightly for a while, they should recover. (9/11/2005)

Agapanthus/Florida Betony

Question: My agapanthus bulbs have become entwined with the Florida betony weed. I plan to dig them up, remove the weeds and replant. Will this eliminate the weeds?

Answer: Such a noble attempt at weed control should have good results, but Florida betony is a tough weed to beat. The problem is many of the little white storage tubers that resemble rattlesnake tails often are left behind to restart the infestation.
Perhaps the best way to approach this weed-control project is to remove the bulbs and as much of the weedy portions as possible. Then, allow the site to set for a few weeks while any remaining weed portions begin to regrow.
Treat the sprouting leaves growing from the tubers with Finale, Roundup or a similar product, and then replant your bulbs when the weeds begin to decline. (2/18/2006)

Amaryllis

Question: Several beautiful container-grown amaryllis plants were given to me, and they have just finished flowering. How should I treat the plants?

Answer: When the weather becomes consistently warm, move the plants outdoors to a site that gets filtered to full sun. Keep the soil moist, and feed the plantings monthly with a 20-20-20 or similar fertilizer solution. During the fall, allow the soil to dry between waterings, and stop the feedings. Normally, amaryllis gives a repeat performance one year later during the spring months. (2/5/2006)

Question: Several of the amaryllis bulbs we planted in containers have flowered. Now that the blooms are gone, can we keep them in the containers outside or do they need to be planted in the ground?

Answer: It's up to you, but containers are such a convenient way of managing amaryllis in the landscape. When they are in bloom, they can be moved to any area where you would like color. They can be displayed in the home, on the patio or among perennial plantings. Then when the blooms decline, they can be set in a less-obvious location.
Container plantings need to be kept moist during the growing season, then allowed to dry a little between waterings during fall and winter. They can be fed monthly with a general garden fertilizer or a liquid solution April through September.
The other option is to add the amaryllis bulbs to a sunny or lightly shaded area of the landscape and give the plants normal perennial plant care. Allow the bulbs to remain drier than most perennials during fall and winter; this appears to encourage spring flowering. (2/26/2006)

Question: I have about 60 amaryllis bulbs, and the new leaves appear while the old leaves are still green. Do I cut off the old leaves or leave them on?

Answer: In mild climates, amaryllis keep their leaves for a year or more. If the leaves are yellow, floppy or in the way of other plantings, they could be removed. Usually the leaves provide needed greenery that can add to the landscape plantings and is trimmed from the bulbs only as it declines or is damaged by cold. (3/11/2006)

Amaryllis/Dividing Bulbs

Question: Our amaryllis looked great this year, but the plantings have grown quite thick. When can we share some of the bulbs with our friends?

Answer: Amaryllis don't seem to be particular about when they are divided. When the flowers fade might be as good a time as any to dig and separate the bulbs. Because the bulbs continue to grow through the summer, they should be set back in the ground as soon as possible. If needed, you can remove the tops of the leaves to make planting easier. (4/16/2006

Amaryllis/Foliage Loss

Question: I have a number of amaryllis that had green leaves until recently, when they declined. Will they recover, and when will they flower?

Answer: All those yellow-to-brown floppy leaf portions might not look pretty, but some great color is just ahead. Each winter is a little different, and this year many amaryllis lost their leaves when damp, cooler weather arrived.
Even though you would prefer a greener look, the loss of foliage often encourages better flower displays come spring. Many gardeners already are seeing the big plump buds pushing up from among the brown leaves.
Now is a good time to remove the leaf debris and get ready for a possibly better-than-average color display. (2/11/2006)

Amaryllis Pods

Question: I have a bed of amaryllis and have noticed a knob forming after the flowers decline. Is this a seed? If it is, can it be used to grow more plants?

Answer: Many seeds are forming in the pods at the top of the amaryllis flower stalks. They're easy to germinate, but you have to wait about three years to see the first blooms.
If you want to give it a try, wait until the pods start to crack open to collect the seeds. They are ready to sow immediately in containers or in the ground. Select sunny to lightly shaded sites. Use potting soil in containers and any enriched garden site for the inground sowings. Scatter the seeds about an inch apart, and cover lightly with soil.
Keep the soil moist, and germination should occur within a few weeks. When the new amaryllis are 4 to 6 inches tall, they can be transplanted to individual containers or left in the garden until fall when they can be spaced out several inches apart to grow and flower. (5/21/2006)

Amaryllis/Transplanting

Question: I have some amaryllis that I want to move. Do I move them after they finish their spring bloom?

Answer: Gardeners seem to be successful moving amaryllis at any time of the year. If you could pick the best time, it probably would be around October or November when the growth slows and the bulbs begin the flowering process. Some research suggests digging the bulbs at this time helps them mature to encourage blooms during late winter and spring. (4/3/2005)

Angel's Trumpet

Question: I recently bought an angel's trumpet tree that is growing in a container in a sunny spot, but it's dropping leaves. What care does this plant need?

Answer: Be an angel and help keep the leaves on this plant by making sure it has adequate water. Nothing makes the angel's trumpet lose its leaves quicker than dry soil. Water when the surface soil begins to dry.
Also make sure the plant has a large enough container. If the pot is too small, it's harder to supply the water needed for good foliage growth.
A sunny spot might not be the best location for the angel's trumpet. Most seem to do best in a filtered-sun location. You also might consider adding this plant to the landscape when the weather is a bit warmer. Care should be easier if the plant is in the ground. (2/5/2006)

Question:I have seen angel's trumpets with dense foliage and lots of blooms. Mine is scraggly and has few blooms. What does it need to grow and flower?

Answer: Angel's trumpets that flower better usually receive some shade during the heat of the day. They can grow in morning sun with afternoon shade or filtered sun all day. They also need to stay moist. Water during drought, and keep in-ground plantings mulched.
Angel's trumpets are also heavy feeders. Apply a light application of a general garden fertilizer to in-ground plantings monthly April through October. Feed plants in containers every other week with a 20-20-20 or similar fertilizer solution or use a slow-release product as instructed on the label. (7/24/2005)

Question: I just received some bare-root angel's trumpet plants. How deep should they be planted, and what care do they need?

Answer: Set the plants in the ground at the point where the color of the stem changes from green to a cream color. This lighter stem portion and the stem below were growing underground and again should be covered with soil. Angel's trumpet plants like the filtered sun but can survive in brighter locations. Keep the soil moist, and maintain a 3- to 4-inch mulch over the root system. They also need frequent feedings with a general garden fertilizer. Apply the fertilizer every six to eight weeks March through November, or use one of the newer slow-release products following label instructions. (3/4/2006)

Apple Tree

Question: We saw apple and pear trees for sale in a local garden center. How well do they grow in Florida?

Answer: These fruit trees are a challenge for Florida gardeners who usually are spoiled by the almost carefree citrus culture. Both trees need yearly pruning and often sprays to mature their crops. You can produce good quality apples and pears using a free care guide available from your local University of Florida Extension office.
Start the plantings by selecting the best varieties for Central Florida. Recommended apples include Anna, Dorsett Golden and TropicSweet. The best pears include Floridahome, Hood and Pineapple. These flower and set fruits with the limited amount of cold received during the winter in local landscapes. (5/13/2006)

Question: I would like to grow apples in Orlando and have heard there are some low-chill varieties. What should I plant?

Answer: Apples do grow in Central Florida, but get ready for a little bit of work. Start by planting one or more of the low-chill varieties that fruit with just a little winter cold. These include Anna, Ein Shemer, Dorsett Golden and TropicSweet. With good care, they should begin production in three to four years.
Care is the critical factor with apples. They need a light feeding once in January and another in June. Also keep the soil moist and control weeds growing near the trunks. Plan to prune the trees before winter flowering each year to create an open branching habit. Then the real work is the frequent spraying needed to control pests late winter through midsummer. (2/20/2005)

Asiatic Jasmine

Question: I am planning to cover a slope with Asiatic jasmine. Can these plantings be started during the fall, and do I need to till the soil?

Answer: Fall through winter is a great time to get your new Asiatic jasmine ground cover off to a good start.
This also could be an easy project because you don't have to till most soils. Simplify the project by first controlling the grass, weeds and other unwanted growths on the slope with Roundup, Finale or other herbicide that allows replanting after the present vegetation is controlled.
If you are planting on a steep slope that could easily erode, consider adding a landscape fabric or netting with a coarse weave that would allow shoots from plants to grow to the surface.
Otherwise, you can install the jasmine anytime the unwanted vegetation on the slope turns brown.
Make the installation easy by digging a hole and planting the jasmine through the declining vegetation.
Asiatic jasmine are rapid-growing plants with underground shoots, so they can be spaced 3 or more feet apart. If you wish, add a thin layer of mulch, and this cool-weather project is finished except for normal care. (11/13/2005)

Question: I would like to establish an Asiatic jasmine ground cover. Would it grow if it were planted now, or should I wait a couple of months?

Answer: Winter is a good time to get your plants started. You might not notice a lot of aboveground growth until the warmer weather, but the plants can be busy sending new roots out into the surrounding soil. Cool-season plantings often appear much better prepared to begin growth than those added when warmer weather arrives. (2/4/2006)

Asiatic Jasmine/Mulching

Question: We are going to plant a bed of Asiatic jasmine in a previously mulched area. Should we remove the pine-bark mulch before planting?

Answer: A thick mulch might help keep down the weeds and conserve water, but it also will restrict the Asiatic jasmine shoots that help fill in the bed. Reduce the mulch layer to about an inch and then add the jasmine plants. Shoots above and below the ground can navigate this thin mulch layer which should benefit the plants until they become established.
Asiatic jasmine plants grow vigorously during the summer. You can space the plants several feet apart and, with good care, expect them to fill the bed with foliage by fall. Keep the planting moist and feed lightly every six to eight weeks with a general garden fertilizer. (7/24/2005)

Question: I have a 2-year-old Asiatic jasmine planting that is still filling in the bare spots under my oak trees. Do I rake the leaves falling from the trees or leave them as mulch?

Answer: A light layer of leaves -- 1 to 2 inches -- can form a water-conserving mulch between the jasmine shoots. A thicker leaf layer could keep water from reaching the soil, and suffocate growths. It may be difficult to rake the excess leaves from between vining jasmine portions. How about using a blower? (6/19/2005)

Asiatic Jasmine/Transplanting

Question: I rooted a number of Asiatic jasmine plants from cuttings. How do I know when they are ready to transplant into the landscape?

Answer: Give these plants a good start by growing them in 4-inch or larger pots until they establish a root system. When the roots start to wrap around the ball of soil, they are ready to transplant. While they are growing in the containers, keep the soil moist and feed them lightly every other week with a general garden fertilizer to encourage good root and shoot growth. (4/2/2006)

Avocado Seed

Question: Every time I start an avocado seed in water, I forget whether the point goes up or down. Which is correct?

Answer: If the seed were planted in soil, it probably wouldn't matter if it were right side up, on its side or upside down. The roots and shoots would still somehow know how to grow. But because the seed is set over water, it's best to get the planting properly oriented.
Maybe you could picture the seed as a little space capsule with the broad bottom resting on the Earth and the pointed side looking toward the sky. This could help with future plantings. Just suspend the large but flattened bottom portion of the seed so it rests slightly in the water, and it should sprout roots and shoots in a matter of weeks. (4/15/2006)

Avocado Tree

Question: I have a 3-year-old avocado tree that is growing as a bush. Is there some way to make it grow more skyward?

Answer: Help your tree grow sky high by selecting one dominant branch to become the central leader. Add a support to the tree trunk to keep the limb in an upright position. Then tip back any limbs that are competing with this central shoot.
Allow the tree to keep the central leader until it's about 20 feet tall. At this time, remove the top foot or two to encourage branching and a rounded growth habit. This keeps the fruits low and makes the tree easier to manage. (10/16/2005)

Question: My avocado is 6 feet tall and growing in a 5-gallon clay pot. The leaves turn brown starting at the tips and eventually fall off. What is happening to my plant?

Answer: As one college professor used to say, water is deficient. All the symptoms point to a plant that is running out of water -- most likely because the container is too small. A 6-foot avocado tree needs room for the roots to roam and lots of soil to hold a reserve of water.
You have several choices that would help restart the green leaves for your plant.
Make sure the soil in the smaller container remains constantly moist. This could take waterings several times a day.
Give the plant a larger container.
Find an in-ground home in a warmer portion of the landscape. (2/26/2006)

Avocado Tree/Ringing

Question: An avocado tree I raised from seed is about 10 feet tall but has not produced fruit. I have been told to cut around the trunk to make it bear fruit, but this sounds absurd to me. What should I do?

Answer: As unreasonable as it might sound, ringing trees and vines has been used to encourage fruiting, but it also makes wounds that might become infected. The idea is to prevent foods manufactured by the leaves from moving down the trunk to the roots. In some cases this seems to fool the plants into thinking they are ready to begin fruit production.
Ringing or other trunk-damaging techniques are usually not used in home fruit production and might be risky if you have only one tree. Perhaps it's better to wait a year or two more until your tree is mature enough to bear fruits on its own without the trickery. (11/6/2005)

Azalea/Aged

Question: I have some large old azaleas that are starting to deteriorate and become covered with moss. What can I put on them to restore them to health?

Answer: It would be nice if a single treatment could restore the health of old azaleas, but there is usually a little more work to do. Start by removing any dead or declining limbs. Then cut some of the oldest shoots back to the ground to allow vigorous sprouts room to grow. One treatment you could apply at this time is a natural copper fungicide to prevent diseases from entering the cut portions.
Continue the rejuvenation by checking the soil acidity and adjusting to an acid pH in the 4.5 to 5.5 range as needed. Establish a 3- to 4-inch mulch layer over the root system, and keep the soil moist. Also, feed with a general garden fertilizer once monthly in June, August and October. (5/15/2005)

Azalea/Lace Bug

Question: All of a sudden, my beautiful Formosa azaleas are getting dark spots on the leaves, which also have a white look to them. My neighbor said it is a fungus. I've treated the plants, but they still look bad. Now what?

Answer: Give your neighbor at least half-credit. The dark spots are likely the cercospora leaf spot fungus that often shows up to mar the foliage after a hot and moist summer. When you see the spots, it's usually too late to stop much of the damage. Perhaps you can anticipate the fungus infestation next year and make the fungicide application in August or early September to prevent the return.
The white to yellowish appearance to the leaves is caused by lacebugs. Turn the leaves over, and if you see dark spots on the undersides of the leaves, it's likely the insects sucking juices from the foliage. These pests can be controlled with an oil spray or an insecticide that contains Merit or one of the new synthetic pyrethroids available from your garden center. (12/4/2005)

Question: My beautiful azaleas have suddenly become a mess. The tops of the leaves have a speckled yellowish look. What should I do?

Answer: A speckled azalea may make an interesting new variety, but not if it's caused by an infestation of lace bugs. It's hard to find an azalea planting without some of these pests sucking the juices out of the leaves to produce the small yellow dots.
Your letter went on to mention the brown spots on the bottom of the leaves -- another sure sign of lace bugs. This coating is a combination of excreta and egg masses that's waiting to produce the next generation.
One good natural control is an oil spray available from your local garden center. This acts as a contact insecticide so you have to do a good job of hitting the undersides of the leaves and the stems. Another control is the systemic insecticide Merit. This can be found in the Bayer Tree and Shrub Insecticide that is applied as a drench to the soil surface; follow label instructions. (5/21/2006)

Azalea/Lacewing

Question: We trimmed back the azaleas after they flowered. The leaves that are on the plants have a gray-green color. What is causing this discoloration?

Answer: Most likely lacewings are feeding on the foliage. Turn over some of the leaves and look for brown spots about half the size of a pinhead on the lower portions. You also might see some of the adult insects with lacelike wings.
A control is needed to allow the azaleas to regrow green leaves. If there is evidence of lacewings, use a natural oil spray to obtain control. You may need to apply the spray several times as instructed on the label to reduce the population significantly.
Another synthetic insecticide control is Merit. It is found at garden centers under the Bayer label as a tree-and-shrub insecticide to apply on the soil under the plantings. (7/3/2005)

Azalea/Leaf Spot

Question: All of a sudden, my beautiful Formosa azaleas are getting dark spots on the leaves, which also have a white look to them. My neighbor said it is a fungus. I've treated the plants, but they still look bad. Now what?

Answer: Give your neighbor at least half-credit. The dark spots are likely the cercospora leaf spot fungus that often shows up to mar the foliage after a hot and moist summer. When you see the spots, it's usually too late to stop much of the damage. Perhaps you can anticipate the fungus infestation next year and make the fungicide application in August or early September to prevent the return.
The white to yellowish appearance to the leaves is caused by lacebugs. Turn the leaves over, and if you see dark spots on the undersides of the leaves, it's likely the insects sucking juices from the foliage. These pests can be controlled with an oil spray or an insecticide that contains Merit or one of the new synthetic pyrethroids available from your garden center. (12/4/2005)

Question: My azalea bush has black spots all over the foliage. What should I use to obtain control?

Answer: A little spring growth might help hide the blemishes produced by cercospora leaf spot, a common fungus that attacks the azalea foliage during summer and fall. By spring, the plants should be changing out their foliage and producing new leaf growth that makes them look a lot better.
If needed, a fungicide could be applied, but you might save the treatments for later in the year when the much-smaller blemishes are first noted. (4/16/2006)

Azalea/Pruning

Question: I have not fertilized or trimmed my azaleas. Is it too late to care for these plantings?

Answer: Resume your good-care program with a fall feeding during November.
If you know the soil in the planting site is acidic, you can use any general garden fertilizer; otherwise, it's best to select an azalea-type product.
Major pruning time ended several months ago, but you can still remove some out-of-bounds shoots. If you trim any more, you likely would remove the buds that produce blooms late winter through spring. Pruning should be completed as soon as possible after flowering and before the end of June. (11/13/2005)

Question: Our azalea plants have grown a few extra-long shoots. Can I remove these stems without affecting the blooms for next spring?

Answer: Such shoots seldom set buds for spring bloom during the first year of growth. You can remove these shoots without worrying about affecting next year's colorful displays. (8/14/2005)

Question: My clump of azaleas is more than 30 years old, has never been pruned and now stands 12 to 13 feet high. Will a severe pruning kill them?

Answer: Not pruning these tall, aged azaleas is more likely to cause their decline than a good trimming. Older azaleas are normally full of declining shoots that allow fungal organisms to enter the lower stems and destroy the shrubs. Enjoy the late-winter color and then begin the rejuvenation prunings as the flowers fade.
Start by eliminating declining shoots and then remove up to one-third of the older main stems back to the ground. Thin remaining weak, twiggy portions, and then cut the plants back a few feet below the desired height. Complete the pruning by applying a copper-containing fungicide to prevent fungal organisms from entering the wounds. (2/19/2006)

Question: My azaleas have just finished blooming. Should I prune them now or wait until June or July?

Answer: Anytime between now and the end of June would be a good time to trim azaleas. Perhaps sooner is better so you will not be wasting the plant's time producing a lot of new growths that might be pruned in a month or two.
Remove the dead or declining stems first. Then trim out some of the older wood to near the ground to make room for vigorous shoots. Complete the pruning by removing shoots that may be out of bounds or must be removed to develop more compact plants. (3/13/2005)

Azalea/Scraggly

Question: I have azalea bushes that, when in bloom, are beautiful, but otherwise they look scraggly. The leaves are sparse and light green. How can I make them greener and fuller?

Answer: Start the revival by checking the soil acidity. Azaleas are only at their best when the soil pH is within the 4.5 to 5.5 range, which is quite acid. Many soils have a higher than desirable soil pH and benefit from the addition of soil or agricultural sulfur as determined by an acidity test.
Next, make sure the planting remains moist with waterings up to two times a week during the hot, dry weather. Also, maintain a 3- to 4-inch mulch layer over the roots. Feed azaleas once monthly in April, June and August with a general garden fertilizer or an azalea product found at local garden centers.
Once the plants resume good growth, encourage branching and additional foliage by pinching out the tips of the shoots. This can be continued through the end of June. Also, azaleas prefer filtered-sun locations; often, plants growing in full sun are naturally a yellow-green color. (5/8/2005)

Azalea/Yellowing

Question: Three weeks ago, I transplanted 12 azaleas from containers and now notice some of the leaves are turning yellow even though I water them every other day. What should I do?

Answer: Some yellow leaves are normal on all azaleas at this time of the year, but this planting also might have dry soil. Even though you seem to be providing adequate water, dig down and check the root balls. Pull a portion of the root ball apart, and reach inside to feel the soil. Often, water runs around the outside of the root balls, and the plants are left too dry. This results in the yellow leaves.
If the root balls are dry, build a berm of soil around the outer edges of each to capture the water and direct it down through the root systems. Then begin watering by hand for a few weeks before returning to watering every two to three days. (1/22/06)

Bahia/Iron Deficiency

Question: I have bahia grass and have noticed big patches with a lime-green color. What can this be, and what should I do?

Answer: Let's hope all you have is an iron deficiency, but you need to check to be sure. First walk across the affected areas. If the soil is soft to loose, there likely are mole crickets causing the decline.
Also dig up a section of the affected sod about 1-foot-square and look for white grubs. If either of these pests are present in the root zone, they likely are chewing the roots to cause the yellow-green look. Mole crickets and grubs can be controlled with insecticides found at your garden center.
When you have eliminated the possibility of insect pests, an iron deficiency is most likely the problem. This is easily cured with an iron-only product available from your garden center. Keep the soil moist and delay additional fall feedings until the lawn regreens from the iron treatment. (10/16/2005)

Bahia/Oxalis

Question: I think my bahia lawn is being taken over by clover that has three leaves and a small yellow flower. What can I do?

Answer: It may look somewhat like clover, but chances are your weed is an oxalis known as yellow woodsorrel. Both weeds are controlled in bahia lawns with a herbicide that contains 2,4-D, Dicamba and MCPP or similar ingredients.
Obtain the best control by following the label instructions carefully. Probably the liquid formulations are best and can be uniformly misted over the foliage of the weeds and grass. (4/24/2005)

Bahia/Resodding

Question: Our bahia lawn is shot, and we are about to resod. The old sod and weeds will be killed with Roundup before we resod. One company says it will lay the new grass over the old sod, and another company says the ground should be tilled first. What is best?

Answer: Some companies lay sod over the debris, but it's risky and meets with varying degrees of success. If you are investing in a new lawn, why not spend a little more time preparing the soil properly to ensure good rooting and survival?
The University of Florida Extension suggests you prepare the site by the numbers.
1: Remove the weeds and associated debris.
2: Till the soil 4 or more inches deep.
3: Obtain at least a soil acidity test, and adjust the pH of the site if needed. Then you can wet the ground and lay your sod to establish a new lawn. (4/3/2005)

Bahia/Sedge

Question: A light green grasslike growth is flourishing in my St. Augustine and bahia lawns. It forms tufts with small green balls on top. Is this a weed or just a strange Florida grass?

Answer: It looks so good that many consider this upright, shiny and vigorous growth part of their lawn. Others more appropriately call this sedge and consider it a weed.
Your fine specimens are commonly known as green kyllinga which grows from underground runners to fill in among the grass blades.
Sedge grows best when there is excessive moisture.
Its growth is often a sign of overwatering.
Sedge also flourishes in landscapes because of summer rains. It might even be considered a substitute ground cover, except it dies back during the winter months to expose bare ground.
If you don't like this green mingling with your turf, several controls are available at local garden centers.
Herbicides that selectively remove sedge from Florida lawns include Basagran, Image and SedgeHammer.
Make sure your lawn type is listed on the label and follow the directions carefully. (5/20/2006)

Bahia/Seeding

Question: Last year's hurricanes turned a shady spot into a sunny area that has now grown weeds. We would like to seed the area with bahia grass. Is there still time?

Answer: Yes, but hurry. Bahia grass grows more slowly during the fall. Seed within the next few weeks to take advantage of the warmer weather and lingering rainy season.
Control the weeds with Roundup, Finale or a similar herbicide that allows replanting after the weeds decline. Rake out the debris and loosen the soil. Then sow the bahia seed. Either rake it into the upper half inch of soil or cover it with a light scattering of topsoil. Keep the planting site moist, and you should have a bahia lawn for fall. (9/11/2005)

Question: My yard is mainly weeds and bare spots. I plan to seed the area with bahia grass. Should I till the ground first?

Answer: Gardeners wish that merely tossing out bahia gass seed would guarantee a great lawn. Perhaps many have been spoiled by the fall ryegrass sowings that grow a green lawn with just water and fertilizer. Establishing a bahia lawn is going to be more like work.
Your bahia sowings need a weed-free, prepared planting site. Control the weeds with a nonselective herbicide such as Roundup or Finale, and when the weeds and old grass decline, rake out the debris. Till the soil and lightly apply a general garden fertilizer. Then and only then is the ground ready for planting.
Scatter the bahia grass seed over the soil and rake it in a quarter- to a half-inch deep. Then keep the soil moist
The seedlings should start to appear in 14 to 21 days and need waterings whenever the surface soil begins to dry. Apply fertilizer again in six to eight weeks to help the grass grow a dense lawn. (3/26/2006)

Question: We are going to start a lawn and would like to grow bahia. How is this done from seed?

Answer: First, eliminate the weeds. An application of Roundup, Finale or similar herbicide that allows planting after use should give the needed weed control. After the weeds turn brown, rake or till the ground to loosen the soil and remove the debris.
Scatter a light layer of a general garden fertilizer over the ground and work it into the upper inch or two of soil. Then sow the bahia seed, and rake it into the ground up to a half-inch deep. Keep the soil moist. The seed should germinate within 21 days.
Encourage seedling growth by watering when the surface soil begins to dry. The soil must remain moist until the new turf establishes an extensive root system. Gradually reduce the waterings to no more than twice a week.
Apply a lawn fertilizer one month after the seedings begin growth. Additional fertilizer can be applied lightly throughout the summer. The lawn likely will not be well-established until fall when normal bahia care can begin. (6/19/2005)

Question: We put down Argentine bahia grass seed three weeks ago and have not seen a blade of grass, even though it was planted properly and kept moist. What could be wrong?

Answer: Let's hope it was just the cooler days during March that delayed the germination. By now, if the seed is going to come up, you should be seeing some little green shoots. Bahia needs warmer weather to grow best. Just keep the soil moist, and keep your fingers crossed. Growing a lawn from seed is not as easy as it sounds. (4/16/2006)

Bahia/Stinging Nettles

Question: I have stinging nettles in my bahia lawn. How can I control these weeds and keep them out of the grass?

Answer: Several weeds often are referred to as stinging or burning nettles, which can make going barefoot a painful experience. Luckily, most liquid herbicides made for use in bahia lawns can get them under control.
Select a product that's recommended for broadleaf weeds. Then apply as instructed on the label for bahia turf.
Note that the label gives the amount to mix with water and the area that should be covered with the spray. Failure to apply the proper amount often allows the weeds to survive the treatments. (2/11/2006)

Bald Cypress

Question: We lost the trees the builder planted in a damp area of our yard. What trees grow in wet areas?

Answer: Most trees don't like wet feet, but a few do grow in swampy areas and might flourish in these problem spots. One that's often found in boggy sites but also grows in dry areas is bald cypress, a deciduous but evergreen-looking tree with attractive fernlike foliage during the warmer months. This native tree grows to 80 feet tall and half as wide.
Another native tree for the wet area is loblolly bay growing to 40 feet tall and 15 feet wide. This is a true evergreen with a dark-green, broad leaf. The tree comes with a bonus of white blooms for the summer season.
Trees that could survive on the edge of the wet spots include dogwood, dahoon holly, red maple, river birch and Southern magnolia. Each needs well-drained soil to begin growth before sending out roots into the wetter zones. (1/8/2006)

Banana

Question: About six weeks ago the banana tree in my backyard started to produce its first stalk of bananas. When will I see edible fruits?

Answer: We will keep our fingers crossed, but this quest for a first harvest is almost sure to have an unhappy ending. Bananas that begin the fruiting process during the fall months seldom mature their fruits because of the cold winter weather.
The foliage usually turns yellow, which stops good fruit production, when temperatures dip into the lower 40s; this occurs most years. At 32 degrees, the plant foliage burns back or freezes. Even if the banana fruits make it through the winter, they usually have a cardboard texture and taste when they turn yellow. Perhaps next time your plants will start flowering by early summer so the fruit can ripen under warmer conditions in about five months. (10/30/2005)

Question: My 7-year-old son and I planted a banana tree about two years ago that finally produced a bunch of bananas. When are they going to be ripe?

Answer: Keep your eyes on the first hand of bananas that formed. When it starts to turn yellow, it is time to harvest the entire stalk and hang it in a shady spot to finish ripening. Remove the individual bananas as they turn yellow, typically over a period of a week or two.
During the warmer months, bananas are ready to eat in about five months after flowering. (8/21/2005)

Question: A friend gave me a banana tree, which quickly grew three shoots. When will I get enough fruits to stop buying bananas?

Answer: Better stay friends with your produce manager; local banana plantings hardly ever produce more than a few weeks' supply of fruits a year. In fact, some home plants are enjoyed more for their ornamental foliage than for an edible crop.
During most winters, banana plantings are damaged by cold before they can become mature enough to produce yellow hands of fruits. Even temperatures just below 40 are enough to make leaves turn yellow and halt good production. Many plants grow well during the warmer months only to flower during fall, which is too late to produce tasty fruits during the colder weather ahead.
Gardeners are most successful with bananas after a mild winter where the plants survive and flower by early summer. The plantings are also more reliable when established in warmer locations on the south sides of lakes or between buildings within cities. 2/26/2006

Bean Seedlings

Question: I started bean seedlings indoors in containers a month ago and put them outside recently on a south-facing patio. The plants lack vigor, and the leaves are turning from smooth green to dry and brown. What went wrong?

Answer: Outdoor life can be a shock to plants that have been started inside the home. The monthlong stay indoors allowed the plants to develop thin leaves that have been burnt by the much higher sunlight levels on the patio. Restart a planting of beans in the same containers but outdoors, and they should grow durable, sunproof foliage. (2/25/2006)

Benjamin Fig/Thrips

Question: The leaves on my Benjamin fig are curling up and look distorted. Inside the curled leaves are tiny black bugs. Is there a pesticide I can use to prevent this damage?

Answer: Benjamin figs have become the home for thrips. These are tiny insects usually brown to black when mature. They are about the diameter of a sewing thread and about a millimeter long. Thrips feed by rasping and sucking the juices from the leaves. When feeding on the figs, they also cause the leaves to curl. Usually you have to unfold the leaves to find the thrips inside.
Thrips can be controlled with a natural oil or soap spray. The trick is to hit them with the spray as they are usually well-concealed within the leaves. Controlling this pest may be the job for one of the more residual synthetic products available at your garden center that can affect the insects as they move about or feed. (8/28/2005)

Bermuda Grass/Invading St. Augustine

Question: I have a patch of Bermuda grass in my St. Augustine lawn. Is there a way to get rid of it?

Answer: If it's green, mow it; otherwise, you will have to kill the entire patch of lawn to eliminate the Bermuda grass. All herbicides available to home gardeners treat Bermuda grass and St. Augustine alike. But, if you don't mind a little brown for a few weeks, spot-kill the patch with Roundup, Finale or a similar product and then resod with fresh, weed-free turf. (5/29/2005)

Bird of Paradise/Flowering

Question: A friend gave me two container-grown bird of paradise plants that I added to the landscape six months ago. My friend said they never bloomed, and they have not produced a blossom for me either. Is there a secret to getting the plants to flower?

Answer: Some things just take time, and bringing a bird of paradise into flower is one of them. First, make sure the plants have a sunny site. They need about three years to become established in a new location and to get into the flowering mode.
You can help by keeping the soil moist and feeding the plants lightly every six to eight weeks for the first two years with a general garden fertilizer during the warmer months.
At year three, put the plants on a leaner diet. Don't let the plants continue to enjoy the good life, or they might grow foliage forever. Restrict waterings to the dry times, but maintain a 3- to 4-inch mulch over the root system. Also, keep feedings to once monthly in March, June and September using a low-nitrogen, blossom-boosting product. The plants should get the idea and soon start to pop out the flowers you are waiting to enjoy. (11/27/2005)

Question: We have a bird of paradise that has not bloomed for several years. It gets the afternoon sun. What can I do to encourage flowers?

Answer: It's not what you do but what you don't do to bring bird of paradise plants into bloom. If the plants are healthy and growing well, put them on a lean diet to encourage flowering.
These plants can take advantage of too much of a good thing. Keep waterings to only the dry times and reduce feedings to light fertilizer applications two or three times a year. The plants should soon get the message and pop out the blooms. (4/23/2006)

Question: I moved to Orlando about 6 months ago and brought an older bird of paradise plant with me that has been growing in a container. It has not flowered for several years, looks weak and the leaves are curling inward. What should I do?

Answer: Perhaps your bird of paradise needs a new home. Remove the plant from its container, and check the root system. All symptoms point to a rotting or pot-bound plant.
Perhaps the best treatment is to remove some of the old soil from around the roots and give the plant a larger container only if needed. Replace the soil, and give the freshly potted plant a filtered-sun location in which to recover. Keep the soil moist, and feed monthly with a liquid-fertilizer solution. As it begins to recover, the plant can be moved gradually to a sunny location where it flowers best. (5/6/2006)

Bird of Paradise/Pruning

Question: I have a 6-foot-tall bird of paradise in front of my house that blooms fine, but its leaves and stems are interfering with other plants. Can I cut it back? If so, when?

Answer: Pruning probably won't be the answer to your out-of-bounds problem. Bird of paradise plants are naturally tall- and wide-growing plants. You can cut off a few leaves if you wish, but the plant usually responds with another flush of tall- and wide-growing shoots. Perhaps the best answer is either to divide the plant or move it to a location where it has additional room to grow. (1/8/2006)

Question: A bird of paradise is growing in front of our window, and I don't want it to get too tall. Because the plants produce stalks from the ground, what is the best way to prune?

Answer: Just for a while, you probably can remove the leaves that peek up over the windowsill. But as you have noticed, the growth of the bird of paradise is different from many plants; the leaves, stems and flowers come from one shoot from the ground. If you cut the shoots back too far, you remove the leaf and flower buds too.
Soon you likely will have to remove some of the taller shoots. This might not be bad as it opens up growing space and allows new vigorous stems to arise from the base of the plants. But, if possible, keep the thinning to a few stems. The growths need time to mature before they begin flowering. (3/19/2006

Bird of Paradise/Yellowing

Question: We moved our white bird of paradise a few months ago, and now it appears to be in shock with yellowing leaves. Should we remove the declining leaves, and does it need anything besides water?

Answer: All leaves, including the yellow ones, can manufacture food needed for growth. Allow the leaves to remain on the plant until new green ones start to appear.
Also, after several months of growth in the new site, your plant is ready for a feeding. A light application of a general garden fertilizer is all that is needed. Repeat the application every six to eight weeks through fall. (8/21/2005

Blue Lake Grapevine

Question: I have a Blue Lake grapevine growing on a trellis. Should I prune this vine? If so, when and how?

Answer: Rein in the plants to obtain good growth and fruits with a mid- to late-winter pruning. Blue Lake is a type of bunch grape, and the vines are renewed each year. Save four to six of the best shoots from last year, and use these as the main vine portions to keep on the trellis. Remove all other vine portions. Contact your local University of Florida Extension office to obtain a free bulletin on bunch-grape care. (11/20/2005)

Broccoli

Question: We produced our first garden this year and need to know when to harvest the broccoli. The head is several inches in diameter. Is it ready to eat?

Answer: Selecting the broccoli at just the right time is a guessing game. You don't want to cut the clusters of buds, commonly referred to as a head, too soon because they will be small and soft. Then again, you don't want it to burst into bloom either.
If the plants are big and healthy, the head of broccoli should grow to about 6 inches in diameter before it is removed. If you see yellow flowers starting to open, you have waited too long. Even at this stage, though, the head should be cut and cooked. It will still be quite tasty. (1/8/2006)

Bromeliad/Container Gardening

Question: How can I grow bromeliads in an air-conditioned apartment? I have a large pot of them, but little by little, they are dying.

Answer: Move the container of bromeliads away from the air-conditioned breezes and to a bright location but out of direct sun. If the plants have central cups of foliage, keep them full of water. Also, try to raise the humidity a little near the plants by setting the containers on a tray of moist pebbles. Otherwise, bromeliads need minimal care.
Touch the soil in the container, and when it feels dry, it's time to water. Moisten the soil until water begins to run from the bottom. You can just about skip feedings in the home. Once or twice a year, mix a 20-20-20 or similar product at a quarter of the normal strength. Use it at a watering and allow just a little to enter the central cups as you also wet the soil with the solution. (10/9/2005)

Bromeliad/Sunny Location

Question: I would like to grow bromeliads in sunny locations. I have heard those with a few thorns on their leaves grow best. What should I plant?

Answer: After the hurricanes, many trees had to be eliminated, and residents soon discovered most bromeliads need a shady site. Just a few can survive full-sun locations, but it's doubtful you can use the thorns of the leaves as a guide. Bromeliads that need shade also often have thorns or spiny projections along their leaves.
One of the thorniest that loves the sun is called pinguin, a member of the genus Bromelia. It forms an impermeable plant growing to 3 feet tall and wide that eventually develops a bright red inflorescence. It resembles the pineapple plant, which is another sunny-site survivor that often has spines along the leaves. Pineapples produce fruit best when grown in full sun.
Other bromeliads that prefer the sun but are not seen as often in home gardens because of their cold sensitivity are dyckias. These, too, are full of spines and might be grown in containers, which can be moved indoors during winter. They form rosettes of foliage with dark green leaves. (4/30/2006)

Butterfly Bush/Pruning

Question: My butterfly bush made it through the winter, but it has many brown to black shoots. Can I prune them? If so, when?

Answer: Don't delay any longer. Cut the dead or declining shoots back an inch or two into healthy stems. Then reshape the plant as needed. (4/29/2006)

Butterfly Gardening

Question: I have a small space and would like to attract butterflies. Could I grow plants in containers? What types?

Answer: Butterflies would be just as happy to visit a container planting as a big bed of color. You could plant a single species of a flower in each container or create a wildflower collection in a large planter.
Bright-colored blooms are always a temptation for butterflies. Plants that are reliable butterfly attractants include butterfly weed, coneflowers, coreopsis, gaillardia, lantana, pentas, phlox, Stokes aster and whirling butterflies. Consider clustering several of these in one large container to accent the patio. (4/10/2005)

Caladium

Question: I have never heard of caladiums flowering, but my sister in California say she has some with blooms. Do they flower locally?

Answer: Most local caladiums produce as many flowers as their West Coast relatives, but they are often hard to see because the more colorful foliage overshadows them. What is commonly called a flower is an inflorescence.
It has a cream-colored hood that conceals the real flower portions. The inflorescence is usually produced after caladiums grow a number of leaves, which can make it hard to see. (11/13/2005)

Caladium/Fertilizing

Question: I am planning to feed my caladium plantings as they begin to grow. Will it matter whether I use a liquid or granular fertilizer?

Answer: Assuming you will be watering the caladium plantings to encourage spring growth, it should not matter what form of fertilizer is used. A liquid fertilizer may move faster into the root zone because it's in solution. The nutrients in a granular product have to be wet and then washed into the soil. With a good watering after fertilizing, you should not see a difference between the products.
This year, you might take a different approach to feeding and apply a slow-release fertilizer. These products meter out the nutrients to feed the plantings for several months. Slow-release fertilizers are Earth-friendly products that help make maximum use of your plant-feeding dollars. (4/17/2005)

Caladium/Transplanting

Question: Some of my caladiums are being crowded out by nearby shrubs. Is there any reason they cannot be transplanted at this time of the year?

Answer: Caladiums do not seem to mind relocation at any time of the year. Gather a clump of the plants with intact foliage, and move them to a spot where there is more room to grow. The move may hasten leaf decline, which occurs naturally anyway during the fall. The underground tubers should survive and be ready to resume growth during March or April. (10/16/2005)

Calla Lily/Yellowing

Question: The leaves on my calla lilies are turning yellow and falling over. Should they be cut off? What care do the plants need?

Answer: Many calla lilies are beginning a rest period that usually lasts until the warmer days of spring. Declining foliage can be removed from these lilies. Other calla selections keep growing into fall and winter as long as the weather remains warm. These are given the same care as perennial gardens or container-grown flowers. (9/18/2005)

Camellia Buds

Question: We have two camellia plants that are covered with buds, but as in the past, they fail to open. Is there a special fertilizer we can use to force the blooms?

Answer: Plants with a consistently poor flowering habit are probably not going to change their ways with a sprinkling of fertilizer. Your plants are likely late-season bloomers that do poorly in local landscapes.
Central Florida's weather becomes too warm before these camellias get into a full flowering mode. Consequently, they begin growth at the expense of the blooms. Why not lift and send these plants on their way a little farther North to a gardening friend? There, they can get the extended cold they need and be better performers. (3/25/2006)

Camellia/Root Bound

Question: I planted camellias more than 12 years ago, but they have not grown much and produce only a few flowers. What do they need?

Answer: It's an old but common camellia problem. Chances are the root systems are still in a tightly interwoven mass about the same size as the pot when they were planted. Dig down and take a look.
If pot-bound, you still might have a chance to promote better growth if you lift the plants and reset them in the ground. This time, loosen the outer roots to encourage growth. You are taking a risk that the plants may not survive, but they are not going to grow any better without resetting either. (4/10/2005)

Camellia/Tea Scale Insect

Question: I have noticed a white material on the undersides of camellia leaves. What should I do?

Answer: If you look closely, you are likely to see that the top of the leaf directly opposite the white stuff is starting to turn yellow. Blame the piercing, sucking tea scale insect. Get control as soon as possible because the crawler stages will be moving out soon to infest leaves that formed during the spring.
Apply a natural oil spray available from your local garden center. Make sure you hit the undersides of the leaves. One treatment may be all that's needed, even though the scale take months to slough off. If the scale begins to spread, another treatment will be needed. (7/3/2005)

Question: My camellias have a white, dustlike powder on the undersides of the leaves that is causing them to turn yellow and drop. What should I do?

Answer: Camellias are almost guaranteed an infestation of tea scale, a common insect pest. Many plantings seem to have a continuous infestation of these piercing, sucking insects.
Oil spray can help eliminate the scale, but you have to treat the undersides of the leaves where the insects feed. Even after the leaves have been treated, the waxlike scale debris often lingers until the leaves drop. Most gardeners have a difficult time doing a thorough job of spraying, and some scale insects remain alive to restart the infestation. Additional sprays usually are needed. (5/13/2006)

Camellia/Transplanting

Question: We have a camellia that was planted in the shade about four years ago when it was about 18 inches tall. It has not grown one bit. We are thinking about transplanting it to another area. Is this a good time?

Answer: Most likely, your plant remains pot-bound. This is a common camellia problem in which plants are set in the ground without altering their tightly wound root balls. Transplanting now might save its life.
Lift the plant from the soil, and check the root ball. If the roots are entwined, pull them apart to encourage their growth into the surrounding soil. Also, try to find a filtered-sun location preferred by camellias. Keep the soil moist, and your small plant could sprout new healthy shoots for spring. (2/19/2006)

Question: Should I move a camellia now that is about 4 feet tall and blooming or wait until it has finished flowering? How much soil will I need with the roots?

Answer: Now is still one of the better times to move small plants. It's possible digging the plant may cause the flowers to brown and drop, but you are more likely to be assured a successful transplant during the cooler weather.
Start the move by moistening the soil to help hold the soil together around the roots. With small plants, a root ball of about 18 inches in diameter and a foot deep should be adequate. Make the cuts downward around the plant with a nursery spade to form the root ball. Then dig under the root ball to lift the plant and move it to the new location. (4/3/2005)

Camphor Tree/Roots

Question: Two large camphor trees with ugly roots are growing in our yard. How many of these roots can I remove without harming the tree?

Answer: Last year's hurricane season taught us a good lesson: Don't prune the roots. At least, don't remove the roots of a tree until you have the advice of a certified arborist. Every root, especially the larger ones, is helping to support your tree.
Many trees appeared to topple during the summer storms because roots were cut to make room for underground cables, sidewalks, driveways and irrigation systems. Arborists may agree to cut the roots to allow better use or maintenance of the yard, but they also likely will recommend pruning to reduce the effects of the wind.  (5/29/2005)

Canna

Question: I have beds of cannas that have been doing well. What can I expect this fall, and should they be cut back?

Answer: Expect lots of colorful blooms until the cooler days of fall. Usually by late November, growth slows and the leaves develop lots of blotches. Most gardeners allow the plants to continue into winter when growth stops and frosts cause the plants to die-back to the ground.
Around the end of February, the remaining top portions can be removed. If needed, the rhizomes can be dug, divided and replanted during the warmer days of March. (10/16/2005)

Canna/Pruning

Question: The canna lilies look as if they are almost finished blooming. Should I cut the stems, and if so how much?

Answer: If you can no longer tolerate the brown, go ahead and remove the declining stem portions. However, you might wait a few weeks longer until the cool weather is over, and then trim all shoots to the ground. If needed, this is also a good time to divide the older clumps of cannas just before they begin spring growth as the warmer weather returns. (3/4/2006)

Cantaloupe

Question: My son and I bought a cantaloupe plant because we love to eat the fruits. Where should we put the plant, and what should we know about the care?


Answer: Although a fresh, ripe homegrown cantaloupe is a real taste treat, getting these fruits to maturity is quite a challenge. Start the planting by setting your transplant in the ground in a sunny location where it has plenty of room to grow. Cantaloupe plants often grow 6 feet or more in diameter. Then keep the soil moist, and feed once a month with a general garden fertilizer.
So far so good, but here is where the problems begin. You like the cantaloupe fruits, and so do the insects. When the fruits form and begin reaching maturity, the pickle and melon worms find them in the garden. You have to be ready to defend your crop with an insecticide.
This is a good time to reach for natural Thuricide insecticide to keep these caterpillarlike critters under control. Apply frequently as instructed on the label and you will enjoy the fruits of your labor. They will turn orange when ripe on the vine. (4/16/2006)

Carnation

Question: The carnation plants I bought this past spring are turning brown and dying. What can I do to save the plants?

Answer: Carnations are cool-season flowers that are not going to take kindly to Florida's hot and humid late-spring through summer weather.
Most decline as you have noticed, signaling the time to replant with summer color. (6/26/2005)

Cauliflower

Question: My cauliflower plants have finished producing large white heads. Will they continue to produce more edible portions?

Answer: All you get from one cauliflower plant is one head of the white bud clusters to harvest, steam and smother with cheese. Well, the cheese is optional. Unlike its relative, the broccoli, which seems to bear forever, cauliflower produces one harvest, and then it's time to pull the plants and produce another crop.
Consider Okra, Southern peas, Sweet Potatoes, Chayotes or other summer plantings. Cauliflower planting time arrives in October and continues through February. (7/3/2005)

Chinch Bugs

Question: An area of our lawn had chinch bugs, but some good grass remains. Will the affected area come back on its own, or should we replace the turf?

Answer: You could wait and see what grows back, but realistically, the weeds normally win in the end. Save yourself a lot of grief and resod this area as spring growth begins.
To make sure chinch bugs don't creep in from the edges, apply a lawn insecticide around late March to ensure that these pests are under control. (2/19/2006)

Question: We sodded our lawn in November, and it looks great right now. What should we use to prevent insects like chinch bugs from causing the lawn to decline again?

Answer: Earth-friendly approaches to insect control are gaining in popularity. Out are the traditional spray programs to prevent insect attack, and in are monitoring techniques to control lawn pests as noted.
Possibly the best prevention technique is to walk through the landscape to detect symptoms of turf decline. Now that you know what a good lawn looks like, stay alert to yellow spots that begin to turn brown. This is the first symptom of chinch bugs. Then look for the pinhead-sized critters.
Gardeners are just beginning to realize there are many good bugs in the lawn. Many lawns will not need a spray this season, so why make costly, earth-damaging and unnecessary treatments? (7/10/2005)

Christmas Cacti

Question: My beautiful Christmas cacti are dropping whole stems that appear to be rotting. What can I do to save the plants?

Answer: A stem-and-root-rot problem can spoil anticipated flower displays for the holiday season. Try to salvage this year's color by reducing waterings to only when the surface soil begins to dry. This might dry up the rot problem. The holiday cactus is tough and likes to stay dry this time of the year.
If the rot problem appears to be extensive, repotting is needed to remove some infested soil. Replant in a loose potting mix. Clean the original container with a solution of one part household bleach to 10 parts water or obtain a new container the same size or slightly smaller. Holiday cactuses also like to be pot bound.
You also could apply a fungicide, but the products that give control are normally more expensive than the cost of several new plants. If needed, contact your local extension office for a list of root-and-stem-rot products that would be effective. (12/18/2005)

Christmas Cactus/Transplanting

Question: My Christmas cactus is in a 7-inch pot and growing over the sides. Is it too late to transplant it to a larger container?

Answer: A Christmas cactus, also commonly called holiday cactus, seems to like a cramped lifestyle. It grows best when the roots fill the containers and become a little pot bound. Presently, the plants are entering a flowering phase in which growth slows, and they won't need a larger container.
Even though your plant might overflow the container, it's probably best not to transplant it at this time. Also, water only when the surface soil becomes dry. If you provide too much water or use a too-large container, root-rot problems could develop. If transplanting is needed, wait until spring growth begins and give the plant a container that is only 1-inch in diameter larger. (10/23/2005)

Citrus/Blooming

Question: Can you think of any reason why a citrus tree won't bloom? Our tree is three years old and about 8 feet tall.

Answer: Perhaps your citrus tree needs a little more time to mature. Gardeners cannot count on reliable production from home trees until they are 5 to 7 years old. They spend the early years growing limbs and foliage.
Another cause for a failure to bloom is a light level that is too low. Citrus trees shaded by buildings or other trees have poor flowering and growth habits. Make sure your citrus tree is in the full sun for the best production. (5/1/2005)

Question: Our citrus trees are 5 years old and always have been loaded with blooms, but this year they didn't flower. They get fertilizer and nutritional sprays, and the leaves are dark green. What should I do?

Answer: Even citrus trees need a break from time to time. It's not abnormal for trees, and especially young ones, to have a bloom-free year. Make sure you are not overfeeding or overwatering the trees. Too much good care could pop out excessive stems and foliage and delay fruiting for a year or two. (5/6/2006)

Citrus/Blooming/Young Tree

Question: I have planted several citrus trees that produced blooms and now have a few small fruits forming. Should I remove the fruits?

Answer: You might save a fruit or two on each tree to make sure of the variety, but most should be removed to encourage additional growth from the trees. When a fruit forms on young trees, the associated limb usually stops growing. Thus it takes longer to produce the bigger trees capable of bearing the larger crops.
Most likely, you won't have to remove many fruits because young trees drop their fruits for the first few years. Also, even when the fruits remain, they are often atypical and a disappointment to growers. It's best to allow the trees to remain fruit-free for at least three years. (4/3/2005)

Citrus/Fertilizing

Question: Our landscape has a number of citrus trees of different varieties. All have just finished flowering, but some still have fruits from last year on the tree. When should the trees be fertilized?

Answer: Even though your citrus trees have different fruiting habits, they are all fertilized at the same time. The first feeding of the year is in March, but go ahead and make the spring application now.
Apply 1/4-pound of a citrus fertilizer for each inch of tree circumference measured 6 inches above the ground. Scatter the fertilizer under the spread of the tree and out past the drip line. Repeat the application once monthly in May, August and early October. (4/9/2006)

Citrus/Fruit Production

Question: I have a 4-year-old orange tree that flowers every spring, but when the fruits reach the size of small marbles, they fall off. What should I do to save the crop?

Answer: Some gardeners get a few fruits from their 4-year-old trees, but most wait five to seven years for production to begin. Extension agents even suggest you remove the fruits for the first two to three years to allow the trees to put all their energy into sturdy limb growth.
This helps the trees to hold the bumper crops you expect. Just give your tree normal care, and it eventually should be a good producer. (5/6/2006)

Citrus/Grafting

Question: About 15 years ago, I bought an orange tree for the yard that has produced only sour fruits. I was told to put laundry detergent around the tree, and water it in, but the oranges are still sour. What should I do?

Answer: Obviously, the detergent trick did not clean up this problem. And I don't want to sour you on a 15-year investment, but your tree is going to continue producing puckery fruits unless it's grafted with a new desirable variety. Because there are few if any grafters for hire, you probably will have to learn the technique yourself. Call your county extension office for a free guide to grafting procedures for citrus trees. (8/28/05)

Citrus/Mulching

Question: I have chips from a tree stump that I had removed from my yard. I would like to use them to mulch around the base of my grapefruit tree. Would this help control the weeds?

Answer: Certainly the mulch should help with weed control, but it also might create conditions unfavorable for the grapefruit tree. It's best to keep mulches, grass and ornamental plantings several feet away from the trunks of citrus trees. The extra moisture maintained within the mulch encourages a disease called foot root that causes the trunks to decline.
Perhaps the best advice is to add the chips to a compost pile or scatter them lightly over other previously mulched areas. Fresh wood chips bind up nutrients as they decompose and make it hard to know how much fertilizer to use when feeding plants in the mulched areas. If the chips are added to a compost pile, they can decompose and be ready as a nutrient-rich soil additive in four to five months. (1/22/06)

Question: I have heard you are not supposed to put mulch around citrus trees, but how about pebbles?

Answer: Mulch, pebbles, flowers and even grass are best kept back from the bases of citrus trees. All tend to keep the bases of the trees moist, which encourages a disease called foot rot that destroys the trunks. If you would like to use a mulch or a planting near the trees, keep each several feet from the base. Otherwise, pebbles are fine. (2/4/2006)

Citrus/Pruning

Question: I have citrus trees I would like to trim. When is the best time to prune, and how much can I remove?

Answer: If it's only light trimming that's needed, you have until the end of October to do the work. Most gardeners like to complete needed pruning during early fall so new growths that might be encouraged can mature before winter. Major pruning is performed before spring growth. (9/11/2005)

Question: I have a small lime tree that has never been trimmed. Does it need pruning, and, if so, when should it be done?

Answer: Citrus trees of all types need little pruning. Some grooming could be done at about anytime. This might include the removal of limbs growing outside the normal spread of the tree, branches that have become entangled or shoots growing from below the graft. Seldom do citrus trees need extensive pruning, but if you want to reduce height and width, it is best performed in mid-February just before spring growth begins. (12/18/2005)

Citrus/Rust Mites

Question: Unlike in previous years, our citrus fruits' skins were dark. When they were unripe, the fruits looked black, and when ripe, they were brown but still tasted good. What caused the change?

Answer: Still good for juice but probably not what you want to share with friends, your citrus fruits were affected by rust mites. These pests are tiny, and when present in large numbers, they can suck the juices from the peels to cause the discoloration. Normally the first damaging mite populations start during late spring and can continue through fall.
Most gardeners who have problems with mites mark their calendars to apply a natural oil spray to their trees in late June or July. This reduces the mite population and is normally the only spray needed. Make sure you follow the label instructions, as this is a warmer time of the year, and cautions found on the product should be noted. (3/5/2006)

Citrus/Soot

Question: We have a 12-year-old orange tree with a black sootlike growth on the leaves, and the oranges appear dirty. The tree also has a white growth on the limbs. Should we remove the tree or is there a treatment?

Answer: Save the tree and apply a natural oil insecticide to remove the mold and the insects that encourage dark fungal growth on the leaves and fruits. The mold feeds on excreta from piercing, sucking insects including whitefly, mealybugs and cottony cushion scale. The white on the trunk of your tree is likely snow scale, another pest that is controlled with the oil. Be sure to treat all portions of the tree to eliminate these pests. (1/22/06)

Citrus/Sucker

Question: A 2-foot-tall, spike like growth is sprouting from the center of my citrus tree. Should I cut it out?

Answer: Called water sprouts or suckers, these vigorous shoots often grow out of bounds. If needed to form a new limb, the shoots can be left in the tree. Otherwise, they are tipped back or eliminated to give the tree a more normal growth habit. (10/16/2005)

Coconut Palm

Question: My husband wants a few coconut palms for our Central Florida landscape, but I know they are meant for South Florida. Any advice?

Answer: Unless a new house or a new husband is a possibility, try to be gentle and kind in explaining coconut palms do not grow in the typical Central Florida landscape. A few have been added to local landscapes, but during winters when temperatures dipped to 32 degrees and below, these in-ground plantings were eliminated.
If your husband insists, suggest that the palms be grown in large containers that he could move to a warm location when cold warnings are sounded. Or at least he could tilt the pots on their sides and cover to provide protection.
You also could pick the warmest spot in the landscape and get set to build a tent over the palms during freezing weather. None of this sounds like much fun, but you likely would keep the coconut palms. (2/5/2006)

Cold Damaged Plants/Pruning

Question: The ornamental bananas, philodendrons and similar plants growing around our pool were damaged by cold. Should we prune them back? If so, when?

Answer: When you can't stand the brown, that's the time to prune. By now, all major cold is over, and you can remove the winter damage. Cut the large leaves from these tropicals back to the main stems. If the stems are damaged, they might have to be removed too.
Philodendrons, most vines and woody plants have buds along the stems that if untouched by the cold can begin new growth as the warmer weather returns. Bananas have only one bud per trunk, and it's normally near the top of the plant. Removing much of the trunk would eliminate the bud. Thus if bananas have much damage, it's best to cut them back to the ground to allow new shoots to grow. (3/12/2006)

Confederate Jasmine/Pruning

Question: I have a Confederate jasmine vine that is growing wild. How should I trim it?

Answer: Feel free to be as brutal as you must. The Confederate jasmine is a tough plant, and it can take a severe trimming once in a while. Most gardeners would trim the plant back several feet beyond where you want the growth to begin. It can be shaped like a hedge. Throughout the growing season, you also can remove long, lanky vine portions as needed. (6/5/2005)

Confederate Jasmine/Shade

Question: I am looking for a vine that grows in the shade and will bloom a lot. What do you suggest?

Answer: Vines and shade normally don't mix. The plants are usually sun lovers that need the high light levels to keep their leaves and to flower. That is why you find them rambling over shrubs and climbing to the tops of trees.
One vine, the Confederate jasmine, likes sun and shade. It's an evergreen and maintains leaves throughout the plant. The vine opens fragrant white blossoms for about a month during May. Other vines that tolerate light shade include the bower vine, calico vine, queen's wreath and Carolina yellow jessamine. (2/27/2005)

Container Plants

Question: I have lost many plants trying to add them to pots. What steps should I take to be more successful?

Answer: Start the move to new containers with fresh potting soil. You want a loose mix that provides plenty of aeration but holds moisture too. Avoid mixtures that are composed of mainly peat moss -- those keep the roots too wet and encourage rot problems.
Next, use a clean container. Scrub off adhering soil and fertilizer residues. Also soak the pot you are reusing in a mild bleach solution for about 10 minutes and allow it to air-dry before planting.
Finally, make sure the pot is not too big for the plant or plants. Too much soil together with a small plant or collection of plants can lead to overwatering and root-rot problems. It's better for the plants to be a little cramped in the container than to have endless room. (4/17/2005)

Container Plants/Pool Area

Question: We have a deck-level planter near the pool that remains quite wet because of swimmers splashing in the water. What can I plant in this area?

Answer: You may have to take a new approach to growing plants in this wet location. An area that is constantly wet during the swimming season continues to cause root rot problems and plant decline.
Perhaps the best answer is to remove a 3- to 4-inch layer of soil and add attractive pavers or colorful rocks to the surface of the planter. Then add attractive container plantings that because of their height could avoid some of the splashing. They also would provide good drainage to grow the ornamentals you would like to enjoy poolside. (3/6/2005)

Container Plants/Water Needs

Question: Most of the plants on our pool deck are in large containers. How do I know when to water and how much to give each plant?

Answer: Work just like a professional to tell when the plants need water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it feels moist, a bit slimy or cool, it's probably wet enough. If the soil feels warm and dusty, it's time for a good soaking.
Use a hose or a sprinkling can to rewet the soil until moisture runs from the bottom of the container. Because each soil is different and there are many sizes of containers, there is no way to calculate an amount of water. You want to moisten the soil thoroughly at each watering. It's then best to check the plants frequently to get to know their water-use pattern. (3/25/2006)

Corn

Question: We are planning to restart a vegetable garden this month. In the past, we had limited success with corn. What is the secret?

Answer: Keep in mind that corn is a grass and that, like most lawns, flourishes only with adequate water and fertilizer. Most gardeners keep their plantings moist but forget to add an extra feeding or two. Perhaps the best way to feed this crop is with a 16-4-8 or similar lawn fertilizer. Feed lightly every three to four weeks, and you should grow the tall stalks with plump ears of corn you have been missing. (8/7/2005)

Corn Plant

Question: I have a healthy corn plant that is getting ready to bloom. Is this a sign it could be dying?

Answer: Some plants do decline after flowering but not the corn plant, a tropical foliage plant, also known as a dracaena. The blooms are a bonus for the good care you have been giving the plant. Corn plants flower only if growing in bright locations but out of direct sun. Most likely, you also h